Cucuzza are a squash colloquially called a word that sounds like "gagootz." The aggressive creeper produces fruit that can grow to six feet or more and appear to be resistant to lantern flies. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)

STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — For some gardening Staten Islanders, the cucuzza -- aka “gagootz” -- vines finally have given the gift of squash this summer. Despite the lack of rain and pesky lantern flies, the plant has been blossoming in the region as it usually does through July and August.

It’s all enough to say, “Oh, my gourd!”

The cucuzza is an aggressive creeper which yields zucchini-ish, baseball bat-shaped fruit that hang downward from a network of vines and their tendrils. And that fruit can be massive!

In a single day, particularly after a rainstorm, the cucuzza can grow several inches, sometimes up to a foot. They can stretch to six or seven feet if there is enough room for them to dangle from a trellis. But as a general rule, the larger the fruit, the more seeds to populate its slightly spongy insides. This may or may not be desirable for the home cook who might cube up the flesh and turn it into a tomato-based stew.

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The cucuzzo’s fruit should grow straight down to the ground. Some might curl into an upside-down question mark. This odd shape indicates the presence of a worm in the fruit, an indication of interior rot.

Either straight or wiggly, these massive things and their leaves appear to be unpalatable to the lantern fly, based on observations from this reporter and other local gardeners growing the squash.

Chef and avid gardener Biagio Settepani said, “My cucuzza plants did not get affected by the lantern fly but my string bean plants did. I dusted it with some powered sulfur and they disappeared.”

A healthy gagootz on the inside. (Staten Island Advance/Jan Somma-Hammel)

Notwithstanding its resilience, the “gagootz” is a marvel of nature, by some standards. Cugini (plural of cucuzzo) sport crepe-y white blossoms that open at dusk which sport a slight faint honeysuckle fragrance. Unlike pumpkin and zucchini blooms, these are not used for stuffing — they are too delicate for that — and are devoid of flavor. By morning, each flower folds into a crinkled tube of petal, similar looking to a closed-up Morning Glory. The scent of flora and leaves keep honey bees busy — and eventually pollinating the plant over the course of a day.

Penne with Gagootz with the leaves and flesh plus tomato from Biagio Settepani's garden. (Courtesy of Biagio Settepani)Pamela Silvestri

When cooking, the “gagootz” can be treated like any other squash — pumpkin, butternut, calabaza, zucchini or patty pan. Some cooks peel the skins with a vegetable peeler, then cut the flesh into cubes to be sauteed in butter or olive oil and garlic. Smaller squash are ideal for cutting into discs, breading and frying. Shredded, the cucurbita species can be worked into a zucchini cake recipe.

If you have not received the gift of a “gagootz” from a Sicilian born Staten Islander or senior citizen of Italian decent, Pastosa of Concord sells them, as does Frank and Sal’s of Great Kills.

And for a catchy tune to use while toiling in the garden, the Louis Prima song, “My Cucuzza,” may leave you with a new word to call your sweetie — a “cucuzza — a pizza pie with lots of mozzarella!”

Pamela Silvestri is Advance Food Editor. She can be reached at silvestri@siadvance.com.

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